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Find your LED replacement in 3 steps
Look at your old bulb and the fixture it came out of. Three questions get you to the right part.
Step 1
Which base is on your old bulb?
Turn the bulb over and look at the pins.
GU24 Twist-lock
Two pins with flared tips. Push it in and twist to lock.
No ballast check → Step 3
Shop GU24 →GX23 2-pin PL
Two straight pins on a slim plastic base. The bulb pushes straight in.
Check ballast → Step 2
Shop GX23 →G24q 4-pin PL
Four pins on a plastic base. Common in commercial downlights.
Check ballast → Step 2
Shop G24q →Check the code printed on the old bulb's base, for example GX23 or G24q-3. Some bases look alike but do not fit each other: GX23 and G23 are both 2-pin, and G24d is 2-pin while G24q is 4-pin.
Replacing a round LED module or a CFL ring in a ceiling fixture? Shop light engines by size →
Step 2 · GX23 and G24q only
Keep the ballast, or bypass it?
Pin-based CFL fixtures have a ballast inside. LED replacement bulbs come in three types, and the type decides how the bulb is installed.
How to check your ballast
- Turn off power at the breaker and open the fixture.
- Read the label on the ballast: brand and model number.
- Compare it with the bulb's ballast compatibility list on the product page or spec sheet. Can't find it? Email us a photo of the label.
Tip: 2-pin bulbs such as GX23 usually run on magnetic ballasts, with the starter built into the bulb. 4-pin bulbs such as G24q run on electronic ballasts.
Plug & play
Swap the bulb, no wiring. The existing ballast stays and must be on the bulb's compatibility list.
- Fastest install
- If the ballast fails later, the lamp stops too
Need plug and play? Type A+B bulbs also run on the existing ballast.
Ballast bypass
The ballast is removed or bypassed and the socket is wired to line voltage, 120–277V.
- No ballast left to fail or replace
- Wire it exactly as the diagram on the bulb or box shows
- Requires rewiring by a qualified electrician
Works either way
Run it on the existing ballast if that ballast is on the compatibility list. When the ballast fails, rewire to bypass and keep the same bulb.
- Most flexible choice
- No second purchase when the ballast dies
Type B wiring is done with the power off, by a qualified electrician. After bypassing, mark the fixture so nobody installs a CFL in it again.
Step 3
Match the wattage and color
Wattage
Find the CFL wattage printed on the old bulb, for example 13W, 18W or 26W. Every product shows which CFL wattage it replaces.
Damp location such as a bathroom or covered porch? Choose a product marked Damp Rated.
Color temperature
Offices and warehouses usually run 4000K–5000K. Hotels and homes usually run 2700K–3000K.
Still not sure?
Email a photo of the old bulb and the label inside the fixture. We reply with the right part number.
Email us a photo support@slite.usReplacing a whole building?
Send us your fixture list. Contractors and facility managers get volume pricing.
Request a bulk quote